The uncrowded coastal holiday resort of Nerja retains much of the Andalucian charm and character, which first attracted visitors to the Costa del Sol. In this one-time fishing village, set above a string of rock girt bays and sandy beaches against a panoramic backdrop of soaring mountain peaks, discerning tourists will find a full range of accommodation, restaurants and shops from the sophisticated to the simple, or tipico, and fascinating glimpses of the rich, unhurried social and cultural life of Andalucia.
They'll also find a chain of glorious golden beaches or playas, all distinctly different in character and atmosphere, from the lively cosmopolitan Burriana beach to the secret delights of the secluded Carabeo, and other even smaller quieter beaches tucked among the rocky cliffs beneath the town.
The following review describes the main beaches to the east of the town centre on the Balcon de Europa, running from east to west. All consist of golden sand and fine shingle – perfect for sand castles or just for chilling out, and all but the smallest are watched over by life guards during busy periods. Buoys exclude boats from the entire beach are to provide safe swimming.
Burriana Beach
The 800m long Playa Burriana is the busiest, most popular and most developed of Nerja's holiday beaches, lying about 600m east of the town centre and the Balcon de Europa. It's framed by tall cliffs, all but the most easterly of which are densely built upon. However, the buildings, though modern, are generally attractive, built in traditional Andalucian style and of moderate height.
The setting and atmosphere of the beach is enhanced by its splendid mountain views and the traditional brightly coloured fishermen's boats hauled up on the sand.
The beach is equipped with children's play areas, netball courts, pedallos, showers, changing facilities, beach chairs, etc., and a paved, palm fringed promenade extends along its full length.
The promenade is lined with delightfully rustic Chiringuitos, sandy floored beach restaurants specialising in seafood, open fired barbecues and above all paellas. Here, among tourists of all nationalities, large extended family groups of Spanish holiday makers and Nerjanos enjoy noisy Sunday lunches stretching into the early evening.
The road behind the promenade carries only local beach traffic and has a wide selection of restaurants, bars, beach and gift shops and a small supermercado.
Burriana beach is 15-20 minutes walk from the town centre, but is also easily accessible by car, although parking is in short supply at busy times.
Carabeillo Beach
This small, pretty beach (150m long), is set below a horseshoe of cliffs between two rocky promontories. It's really an extension of Burriana, and you can walk between the two in most tide and sea conditions.
Other than showers, and a café on the promenade at the head of the stairs above the cliffs, it has no beach facilities, but shares those of Burriana.
Located 10 minutes walk from the town centre, or drive to the top of the cliffs. Less active visitor should note that it's a steep climb up the stairs between clifftop and beach.
Carabeo Beach
Playa Carabeo is a very pretty beach about 120m long ringed by high cliffs and accessed by a steep staircase from Calle Carabeo at the top of the cliff. Only five minutes walk from the town centre.
There are no beach facilities except showers, a fisherman's hut and winch and a rarely opened ice cream booth. A single fishing boat still hauls up here.
There are several very pretty, even smaller and well hidden beaches on either side of Playa Carabeo. These used to be accessible from a paved beach path (the Paseo de los Carabineros), but much of this has been closed due to rockfalls, and it's now necessary to swim or walk along the sand from Carabeo beach to reach them.
Calahonda Beach
Playa Calahonda sits in a pretty, rocky bay immediately below the Balcon de Europa, accessed by steeply sloping stairs running down from the street above. It gains added charm from the views of the mountains to the east, the palm fringed Balcon to the west, landscaped gardens at the foot of the cliffs behind, and the colourful group of fishermen's boats hauled up on the sand.
It has a good range of beach facilities including toilet showers and changing huts, beach beds and umbrellas and a restaurant. More restaurants and shops are just minutes away at the top of the cliff. All this makes it very popular, and it can get quite crowded.
Beaches West of the Balcon de Europa
To the west lie more beaches, of different character, but equally attractive and offering different facilities.
These include:
- Playa el Salon - somewhat like Calahonda beach.
- Playa Torrecilla - busy and well provided with facilities, bars and restaurants.
- Playa El Chucho - a rather quieter extension of Torrecilla.
- Playa el Playazo - a quiet and undeveloped beach, with two or three bars and chiringuitos and popular with kite surfers.
Beach Quality
Although the beaches themselves are kept beautifully clean, and two have won the coveted Blue Flag, pollution in the sea itself has been a problem in recent years. In general this is quickly cleared or dispersed, but its to be hoped that a permanant solution will soon be found.
Conclusion
Finally, Nerja has more to offer than its splendid beaches. There are a host of other attractions to explore and many great places to eat as well.
Tony Allen - In 2004 I began my "fourth career" as a freelance writer. In my first career, after training at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, I ...
