The one-time fishing village of Nerja retains much of the Andalucian charm and character which first attracted visitors to the Costa del Sol. This uncrowded coastal holiday resort stands atop a string of rock girt bays and sandy beaches against a panoramic backdrop of soaring mountain peaks. Here discerning tourists will find a full range of accommodation, restaurants and shops from the sophisticated to the simple, or tipico, and fascinating glimpses of the rich, unhurried social and cultural life of Andalucia.
Nerja also boasts a chain of glorious beaches or playas, all distinctly different in character and atmosphere, from the lively cosmopolitan Burriana beach to the secret delights of the secluded Carabeo, and other even smaller quieter beaches tucked among the rocky cliffs beneath the town. Many visitors rate these the best beaches on the Costa del Sol.
The following review describes the main beaches to the west of the town centre and the Balcon de Europa, running from east to west. All consist of silver/golden sand and fine shingle – perfect for sand castles or just for chilling out, and all but the smallest are watched over by life guards during busy periods. Buoys exclude boats from the entire beach area to provide safe swimming.
Playa el Salon
This is a very pretty beach, about 150 m long, nestling beneath rocky cliffs immediately below the central square and Iglesia del Salvador next to the Balcon de Europa. A line of old fishermen's cottages are carved into the rocks and brightly coloured fishing boats are hauled up onto the sand, giving it a picturesque quality similar to the Playa Calahonda the other side of the Balcon. It's good for bathing, sunbathing and playing on the sand.
There is one beach restaurant serving drinks and snacks, and a number of more sophisticated restaurants close at hand at the top of the cliff.
The nearest car access is the central underground car park beside the Ayuntamiento, from where the beach is approached via the Cuesta Salon, a paved ramp leading off from just in front of the church.
Playa Torrecilla
This is a large and popular beach about 250m long, flanked by two rocky headlands, and with the ruins of an old watchtower, destroyed by the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic Wars, standing on the western headland. A balustraded promenade runs the entire length of the beach, backed by hotels, holiday villas, restaurants and bars, and the beach is well provided with beach umbrellas, changing huts, showers, toilets etc. Torrecilla is good for all the normal beach activities, although surfers and sailors normally prefer the two westernmost beaches, El Chucho and El Playazo.
Playa Torrecilla is one of the most accessible beaches, both by car and on foot, and is only a few metres from Calle de Merida or Calle de Herman Cortes.
Playa el Chucho
This 100m long beach is in effect a smaller and quieter extension of Torrecilla, lying between the ruins of the old watchtower and the mouth of the river Chillar and backed by hotels and villas. It is largely undeveloped except for a newly built pedestrian walkway, but all the normal facilities, bars, restaurants etc are available only 100m away on the Plya Torrecilla.
It's a good family beach, and also popular with surfers and beach fishermen.
Approach el Chucho from Calle de Merida, or from the Rio Chillar pedestrian walkway.
Playa el Playazo
This is the largest of all the Nerja's beaches stretching a full 800m from the mouth of the Rio Chillar to that of the Rio Seco. The immediate area behind the beach is not particularly attractive, a spread of scrubby fields and avocado orchards, but beyond is a splendid view of Nerja's surrounding mountains.
However, this unspoiled beach is splendid for the whole spectrum of beach activities from sand castles to swimming and sailing or boating. It's never particularly popular with beach fishermen and wind or kite surfers.
There are toilets and changing huts at both ends of the beach, a scattering of beach restaurants along its length, and a smart hotel and restaurant at the western end.
Access is good from the N340 coast road at the Rio Seco crossing, where you can actually drive onto the beach, or from the Rio Chillar walkway and Calle Antonio Ferrandiz, where you can also drive onto the beach unless the Chillar is in flood.
Nerja's Eastern Beaches
To the east of the balcon de Europa, a series of rocky headlands shelter more beaches, several even prettier; Calahonda, Carabeo, Carabeillo and finally Burriana, the best equipped and most popular of all.
Beach Quality
Although the beaches themselves are kept beautifully clean, and two have won the coveted Blue Flag, pollution in the sea itself has been a problem in recent years. In general this is quickly cleared or dispersed, but its to be hoped that a permanent solution will soon be found.
Conclusion
Finally, Nerja has more to offer than its splendid beaches. There are a host of other attractions to explore as well, and lots of splendid places to eat, and to enjoy locally caught seafood..
Tony Allen - In 2004 I began my "fourth career" as a freelance writer. In my first career, after training at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, I ...
