Nerja holidays offer all that's best about the Costa del Sol, and all the charm of the scenery culture and climate which first drew visitors here, but is now increasingly hard to find.
The Costa's splendid climate and accessibility, with cheap flights and plentiful holiday accommodation, attract large numbers of tourists from all over Europe. But in many areas, particularly west of Malaga, this very popularity has led to over development, crowding and a general drift downmarket which have tarnished its reputation as a holiday destination.
The delightful holiday resort town of Nerja, an easy hour's drive east of Malaga airport is a shining exception. Standing above a chain of sandy, rock girt beaches and set against a backdrop of towering mountain peaks, Nerja is centred around an old fishing village. Today it offers a wide spectrum of accommodation, restaurants and shops from the sophisticated to the simple, or tipico, and fascinating glimpses of the rich social and cultural life of Andalucia but still retains the character and charm which first made this part of Andalucia such an attractive holiday area.
The Town of Nerja
At the centre of the town is the Balcon de Europa, or Balcony of Europe, an elegant palm lined square, which extends onto a rocky promontory with magnificent views along the coast and the surrounding mountains. On either side of the Balcon are pretty beaches, where traditional brightly painted fishing boats still haul out. Surrounding the square are the picturesque 17th century Iglesia del Salvador, and a number of attractive restaurants, hotels and holiday apartment buildings. Here one can sit under an umbrella with a coffee or glass of wine and watch the life of Nerja bustling or strolling by from morning until late at night.
Radiating out from the central square are the winding streets of the old town, dotted here and there with the original fishermen's cottages, but now predominantly lined with street restaurants, cool bars, small hotels and hostals, and a huge variety of shops ranging from elegant fashion boutiques and jewelers to street corner supermercados, bakers and fishmongers.
Further out, you'll find the newer developments, mostly built since the 1970s, and largely composed of residential villas, apartments and small hotels. In general, this new building is sympathetic and traditional in style, with attractively landscaped gardens and public spaces, and even the larger hotels are of a relatively modest height, avoiding the concrete jungles of the western Costa del Sol.
And, wherever you are in the town, delightfully framed at the head of every street is a view of the sea, or of the majestic peaks of the Sierra de Almijara.
Nerja's Beaches
Nerja has a delightful variety of good beaches, with a mixture of golden sand and fine shingle. The main beach, the 800 metre long Playa Burriana, lies on the eastern end of the town, and is lined with restaurants, bars, beach shops, and hugely popular merenderos, outdoor beach restaurants specialising in paella and fish dishes. Here, intermingled with visitors of all nationalities, extended Spanish families enjoy uproarious lunches extending into early evening.
Next, alongside the centre of the town is a sparkling gold and blue necklace of small, intimate and usually uncrowded rock girt sandy bays, while further to the west are two more large beaches; Playa Torecilla which is lined with hotels, restaurants and shops, and Playa El Playazo an undeveloped beach popular with windsurfers.
Feasts and Fairs in Nerja - Fiestas and Ferias
On feast days and holidays the Balcon de Europa resounds with the efforts of the local band; at Easter, processions of scarlet hooded penitentes carry huge platforms bearing brightly painted and gilded religious figures around the town; on the feast of San Isidro proud horsemen, their brightly gowned womenfolk riding sidesaddle behind, clatter by following a straining bullock cart bearing the statue of the town's patron farmer-saint. Any and every opportunity is taken for a fiesta and procession, when the community throw themselves into the party, un-selfconsciously and entirely for their own pleasure, but happy that the visitors should enjoy it too.
Eating Out in Nerja
There's a wealth of choice for eating places, from simple family run Spanish tabernas to sophisticated international restaurants with a range of Chinese, French, Greek, German, Scandinavian, Thai, Indian and Italian between.
Most delightful are the many small tapas bars where for the modest price of a drink you'll also be given a small dish of some tasty home cooked local delicacy.
Holiday Accomodation in Nerja
Nerja has ample accommodation for visitors, of all types and at all prices. Hotels range from the top of the market Parador and large international hotels, to small family run hotels and hostals. There's also a good range of rental villas and holiday apartments at all price levels.
More about hotels and holiday rentals in Nerja.
Travelling to Nerja
Sited alongside the main N340 coastal Autovia, Nerja is an easy hour's drive from Malaga Airport 60 km away, and easily accessible for self drive travellers from northern Spain or France. It's also well served by comfortable an inexpensive bus services to Malaga, nearby villages and along the coast.
Holiday Activities Around Nerja
There's always plenty to do in Nerja itself for those who seek more than just sun and sand, but it's also a splendid base for sightseeing, walking or horse riding in the magnificant scenery of the nearby Parque Natural de las Sierras de Tejeda y Almihara, for exploring the mountain villages, castles and churches of historic Andalucia, or for ranging further afield to the ancient cities of Granada and Malaga.
More information about:
- Things to do and see in and around Nerja.
- Holidays in Axarquia.
- Walking in Axarquia
Tony Allen - In 2004 I began my "fourth career" as a freelance writer. In my first career, after training at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, I ...
